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A Travel Letter From Chicago Seacoast Voyage
By: Lloyd L. Hyde
Historically,
it has been referred to as the Land of Wood and Water, and perhaps it
is. The lyrics of a well known song by Harry Belafonte remind us that it
is the Land of the Sea and Sun. It has also been aptly titled the Crown
Jewel of the Caribbean, Island Paradise, and Queen of the Antilles.
These are just a few of the names that have from time to time been
conferred on this tin)' piece of God's creation with a rich heritage and
a proud people. I am told that many years ago when George Shearing
visited the place, although blind, he said as far as he could "see" this
is a beautiful country. It is the place where many in North America
fondly call home, not to mention those half a world away in various
parts of Europe. We are talking about the birthplace of poets,
politicians and planters the homeland of artisans, architects, authors,
carpenters, cobblers and coopers. The climate is great, the trees are
green, the waters warm, the blue seas inviting and the people friendly.
Picturesque mountains, enchanting breezes, and lush flora all combine to
make Jamaica the perfect island paradise.
Travel with me for a while and allow me to take you on an unforgettable
journey to places that will warm your heart, enrich your life, and
refresh your senses. Along the way you will see birds and wildlife that
are to be found no where else, feast on exotic tasting fruits and
berries, and quench your thirst with water fresh from that great green
nut, the coconut.
Let’s begin our tour in the nation's capital, Kingston, a city with a
population of roughly half a million. A visit to Hope Botanical Gardens
is definitely on our schedule it's the largest of its kind in the West
Indies. However, if you are not taken with lush greenery and
breathtaking flora, then we can opt for a visit to the Institute of
Jamaica at Duke, East and Tower Streets, where you will be exposed to a
good measure of West Indian history; the Art Gallery and Reference
Library' are the largest of their kind.
Remember, we are still in Kingston, so let's not forget to visit the Bob
Marley Museum and Devon House, a historical site and a restored
nineteenth century mansion located at Waterloo and Hope Roads. Since we
are so close, perhaps we can obtain permission and pay a visit to
Jamaica House and Kings House, the residences of the Prime Minister and
Governor General respectively. These residences are just northeast of
Devon House and are within walking distance for many in the area. Are
you a little beat from excess walking or dining, or are you an avid
sightseer who refuses to succumb to fatigue? If you are the latter, let
me recommend we continue our tour by visiting Mico Teachers' College,
located between Marescaux and Slipe Roads, one of the nation's oldest
colleges, and alma mater to many famous Jamaicans. Just south of the
College is the National Heroes Circle the name says it all. Depending on
where in Kingston we have started out, we certainly have not gone all
over the city, but before our grand tour comes to an end. Let’s squeeze
a few more sites into our schedule. The much talked about craftsmarket,
Kingston’s many malls, the National Gallery and the Conference Center
might be ideal additions to our list. These are right near Kingston
Harbor and if you or your party are staying in one of the hotels located
in the New Kingston area, such as the Courtleigh, Four Seasons, Sutton
Place or the Pegasus, you are more northerly located. Therefore, these
latter sites could be on another day's itinerary. Remember, we are not
going to spend all our time in Kingston; visiting the north and south
coasts are a must. So why don .t we plan a trip starting in Kingston
since we have already seen a few of its sites.
We know that Port Royal, the place associated with pirates and buried
treasure, and Spanish Town, the former capital, are definitely on our
list of places to see. However, we are planning a whole day for this
adventure. Why not travel with me in a northwesterly direction towards
Ocho Rios and we will make our first stop Bog Walk in the parish of St.
Catherine. We are stopping here because we want to buy some fresh citrus
and other fruits from the friendly vendors and check our luggage just to
make sure we did take our swimwear along. Our needs met. we continue on
past Linstead, taking time to get an eyeful of the legendary Linstead
Market. Which gave its name to a popular calypso? Onward we go to
Ewarton, site of Alcan Jamaica. Here we should spend a few moments
observing where perhaps some of Europe's and North America's aluminum
had its origins.
We are now continuing on our northwesterly direction past Mount Rosser,
and challenging Mount Diablo, past Schwallenburgh and Faiths Pen and on
through Moneague. Here in Moneague where the soldiers and/or security
forces carry out regular field training exercises. We find a very mild
climate. We could encounter some fog here. but not to be alarmed it will
be nothing compared to the great fogs of Europe and North America. At
Moneague we come to that fork in the road, and since we are going to
Ocho Rios we will keep on the right of the fork, bypassing Golden grove
and Claremont. In the direction we are headed, the first village we will
get to is Walkers Wood, and folks we are on our way to Ocho Rios via
Fern Gully!
Here
is a roadway the likes of which you have never seen and will not see
anywhere else. Ferns hundreds of them everywhere, flowering plants and
trees which form a continuum that provides nature's most artistic
shelter of the sun's ray from the road. One needs no encouragement to
take pictures here. This will be all downhill travel in this area.
However, let's look out for other motorists while we sightsee and
indulge in the best of amateur photography.
We have now sight seen to our hearts' desires and we are ready to
proceed to Ocho Rios. This will be the first of many of the major stops
that we will make. Ocho Rios has many attractions for the visitor or
tourist and it is an area that is growing rapidly. Hotels abound, large
and small, along with miles of beaches, waterfalls, rivers and unending
nightlife. It is this area that the late Errol Flynn visited, and in
which he spent considerable time. Some of the hotels located in this
area are Sunset Jamaica Grande, Royal Plantation, Jamaica Inn, Couples
Sans Souci, Hibiscus Lodge, Shaw Park, Silver Seas, Rooms on the Beach
and many more. A visit to Dunn's River Falls is not to be missed, along
with a canoe ride on the famous White River. The shopping centers in
Ocho Rios are Coconut Grove and Pineapple Place with others in between.
Here we may find some items that may not be found in the craftsmarket in
Kingston. Don't forget. though, as we continue on our journey to Montego
Bay that there too will be a much larger craftsmarket. So let's say
goodbye to Ocho Rios and continue westerly with Montego Bay in focus.
We will be traveling along what is commonly referred to in Jamaica as
the seacoast, a reference to the close proximity of the highway to the
sea. You will not only find this sight very picturesque and serene, but
very comforting as so many of the folks you pass along the way will
always have a smile and a friendly wave for us. It is said that
Jamaicans, old and young alike, are some of the most friendly people in
the world and their congeniality is often times contagious.
St. Ann's Bay will be one of the first towns we will get to after
leaving Ocho Rios. Here at the birthplace of one of Jamaica's national
heroes we come to the midway point of our journey between Kingston and
Montego Bay. At this juncture we are approximately 60 miles from both
cities. So let's capture some of the town with our 35 mm, instamatic or
movie camera and move along. Runaway and Discovery Bays are other
attractions on our journey. At Runaway Bay are to be found hotels such
as, Breezes, Hedonism III, Royal Decameron and Runaway Bay H.E.A.R.T.
Resorts. However, we can't stop here too long. We have got to go on past
Discovery Bay and on to Rio Bueno, Braco, and make a brief stop at
Duncans Silver Sands Hotel. Remember our stop is brief, so assuming we
have gotten some refreshments and taken pictures of our favorite scenes
and people, we are going to proceed to Falmouth, the home of Trelawny
Beach, Martha Brae River, and Falmouth Resort. We are now about 66
percent into the parish of Trelawny. Let's snap a few more quick photos
and quickly move on, heading past Salt Mash and Flamingo Beach on over
into the parish of St. James.
Some of the first areas of interest in this parish will be the Windham,
Rose Hall Beach, and Country Club Hotels. I must tell you that you are
now only a few miles from the city of Montego Bay what may be called the
island's tourist Mecca. Quite frankly, it is indeed just that. This area
has by far the largest share of hotels and guest houses, beach clubs and
beaches literally miles and miles of white, sandy beaches with more than
its share of water sports. In terms of cleanliness, it is immaculate.
The people greet you in the hotels, on the streets, and just about
wherever you go. Don't you forget that among the many activities
awaiting us here are deep sea fishing, snorkeling, scuba diving, golf,
tennis, and water skiing.
This can also be the take off point to other activities, such as bird
watching, a visit to Cockpit Country, home of the Maroons, the
descendants of the slaves who battled colonialists to early freedom.
Since we have now spent three or four days in Montego Bay and we have
done everything on our itinerary for this trip, let's move on. We are
still traveling westerly into the parish of Hanover towards Hopewell.
That's a terrific name for a place, isn't it? However, let's go on to
Sandy Bay the home of Tryall Golf and Beach Club. About now you should
be asking some travel questions, such as where are we heading now?
Believe it or not, we are heading for Negril where we will find Hedonism
II and Negril Gardens. Let me hasten to add that these are just two of
the many hotels and clubs in this very western tip of the island, and
another heavily trafficked tourist area.Remember that we are not yet in
the town of Lucea. Bear in mind it is Lucea not Lucia.
At Lucea we are still in Hanover. We have observed the land and
seascape, talked with some people, and have had a refreshing glass of
coconut water. We should now gas up our rented automobile, repack our
cameras, and head for Green Island. Are you a little tired from your
road travel? I hope not because we are now in the final stretch on our
way to Negril. Here in Negril between the parishes of Hanover and
Westmoreland we will spend a day relaxing. relaxing. and relaxing on the
beach enjoying the spicy cuisine and admiring the scenery. This. though
a small area, has loads of fun and attractions with about seven miles of
white sandy beach. From here however, we are about to start on our
easterly journey. We will travel a little inland to Savanna la mar to
pick up a main road that will take us along the south coast in an
easterly direction to the town of Black River, where is found the
island's largest river, in the parish of St. Elizabeth. In Black River,
we should make sure we stop at Waterloo Guesthouse, an old, renovated
mansion that sits right by the river. The guesthouse provides a unique
opportunity for dining on the terrace which practically juts out into
the river and allows guests to observe, first hand. the spirited
movement of the water.
From Black River we should continue along where about 10 miles away. a
little off the main road, we come to Treasure Beach, a very lovely and
quiet area on the south coast of Jamaica. Coming back to the main road,
a few miles further along, again a little off the highway, we should
come to Lovers Leap. It is one of a kind: a 600 foot cliff above the
sea. The name symbolizes the story of two slaves who deeply in love,
fled their captors to the cliff, where clinging to each other they
scaled the cliff, preferring to take their chances over the mountain top
rather than risk recapture and separation. It is breathtaking to look
over and observe the foaming waves crashing into the shore The romantic,
and even the non romantic, will become quickly enraptured here. Some
pictures are an absolute must.
We want to pick up a major artery to the town of Mandeville; a very
healthy climate abides in this mountain top resort. Its tropical type
cooler weather attracted early settlers from Europe. At times foggy, it
nevertheless provides enjoyable living, with its tranquil and
predictable slow paced atmosphere. Here in Mandeville we are in the
parish of Manchester, so let us travel on down Melrose Hill to Porus,
where you will find the greatest variety of citrus fruits with an
incomparable sweetness and juiciness. Preceding through Porus our next
stop is in the parish of Clarendon. We should plan on stopping at
Denbigh to see where the island's major agricultural show is held
annually. In Clarendon we may also want to see Colbeck Castle, one of
Jamaica's old great houses built by Colonel Colbeck in the seventeenth
century. During the decision making process we went by the town of May
Pen and we have now crossed over into the parish of St. Catherine. The
town, Old Harbour, is our first stop in this parish. Here we may want to
buy some of the best salt water fish that can be found worldwide. The
people at the Hellshire may tell you that theirs is the best but the
proof is in the eating.
We have all eaten our fish, so it is time to continue on our journey.
Shall w e stop in Spanish T own? I would say yes, because we didn't on
our wav out earlier in the week. Spanish Town, remember, was the first
capital and home of the oldest cathedral in the West Indies. It is the
Spanish Cathedral of St. Jago de la Vega. There are other sites to see.
so let's look around at some of the architecture. We are now on our way
back into Kingston. If you were watching the car's odometer you would
have seen that we have clocked about 340 miles for this trip. Now that
we are back in Kingston, let's relax over this weekend. Our next trip
will take us easterly to the parish of St. Thomas around the east coast
up through the parishes of Portland and St. Mary. From St. Mary we will
travel inland back to Kingston.
This trip, then, will have taken us to the three counties of Cornwall,
Middlesex and Surrey. We will have also traveled to all of Jamaica's 14
parishes. Incidentally, did you notice that just about seven of those
parishes are saints? Can you tell me why? I hope you enjoyed this tour
with me. I have. Remember that after the east coast travel we should go
on some inland travel. Rest assured that in the Land of the Sea and Sun
we have a lot more places to go, people to meet, and things to see.
Would you like to travel with me on my next trip?

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